"Crete
- Kapetaniana - Kofinas"
Philippe Bugada (EN,
FR, DE, GR - published 2006)
Climbing
guidebook 1

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Paradoxically,
sport climbing on Crete has until recently been a minority
interest, limited to a few remote spots in the Asteroussia mountains.
Today things have changed a lot !
After the first book on Kapetanania, "CRETE
- KAPETANIANA - KOFINAS", which carefully describes a handful of sites
around Kapetaniana, a semi-desert eagles nest overlooking the southern
coast of the island, the second
volume "CRETE - FROM THE NORTH TO THE SOUTH" invites the reader
to discover 7 new climbing sites across the island. Whilst the admiration
for the beauty
and power of the scenery remains the same, the sectors described
here
are definitely more sporty. However, beginners are not forgotten in this
guide book which takes the time to transmit the unique flavour of each
of these areas of vertical freedom.
Please buy the the climbing guide here
and don't copy it!
Awaiting you
in all areas:
Beautiful countryside
Super cliffs
Routes set up really well
And we expect you to:
Respect the environment
Value the opportunity of being a guest here
Appreciate the maintenance and extension work.
Therefore:
Please buy the the climbing guide here
and don't copy it!
MERCI BEAUCOUP
from Philippe Bugada
DANKE SCHÖN
from Luisa Schuschnigg
THANK YOU
from Zbynek Cepala
....actually Crete is nice place and Capetaniana is the most well
organized rock climbing area in Crete,........Aris Theodoropoulos,
Athens
....we loved rock climbing on the beautiful white limestone near the
south cost of Crete. The quality of the routes is very high and we
highly recommend this area,
Jeanette and John, from Adelphi, Maryland, USA |
This is the first
climbing guide from Philippe Bugada for the "Crete
- Kapetaniana – Kofinas" sport climbing area in the Asterousia
Mountains, which has been set up since the early 80s by the Zbynek
Cepala completely on his own initiative. Zbynek has put over 40
years of experience to good use here, creating a very well laid
out climbing area, which currently has 140 routes with all
different difficulty levels.
The routes are secured by 10 mm Hilti bolts, fastened into the rock
with short distances between each other. General safety conditions
apply.
In the past when sport climbing was still in its teething stages,
routes were set up using old and inadequate material, and these should
be only used with great caution. These routes are marked with a special
sign in the climbing guide. Nowadays, however, there is a new generation
of climbers who make sure the routes are set up properly.
But the mountains of Crete rank amongst those places on Earth which seem
to have been made to satisfy the desires of the most insatiable climbers.
So, three years later after publishing the first book "Crete-Kofinas-Kapetaniana" we
present you here the new climbing book of Philippe Bugada "Crete-From
North to South" (English/French)
After the first book on Kapetanania, this second volume invites
the reader to discover 7 new climbing sites, across the island.
"Crete
- From North to South"
Philippe
Bugada (EN, FR - published 2009)

This book contains about 250 new sport climbing routes from 4 to 8 and
some multipitch and trad climbing ones.
Sites covered : 8 areas spread over the North and the south coast of
the central part of the island : Skoteino, Malia, Plakias, Dhamnoni Bay,
Agiofarango, Agios Ioannis, Treis Ekklisies, Koumoi.
To put you on the right track, for each site there is a road map, a more
detailed map for pedestrian access and concise information and diagrams.
There are plenty of comments too, both on the sectors and the routes
themselves, which try to in form and sometimes amuse, without spoiling
the “on sight” aspect.
Finally, if Kapetanania and it's little white book remains interesting
from a wilderness point of view, the sport climber will certainly appreciate
this new volume, all in black.
The most interesting point for those who want to discover the island
through climbing which is now blessed with many new routes is the variety,
both of the sites described and the range of difficulties encountered.
Will the (fanatical) climbers/openers who operate here turn Crete into
a well know destination?
The answer maybe in these books, black or white. But above all it is
for you to judge by the fun you will have climbing there.
Awaiting you
in all areas :
Beautiful countryside
Super cliffs
Routes set up really well
And we expect you to:
Respect the environment
Value the opportunity of being a guest here
Appreciate the maintenance and extension work
Therefore:
Please buy climbing
guide
here and don't copy it!

Philippe Bugada - Luisa Schuschnigg - Zbynek Cepala
MERCI BEAUCOUP - DANKE SCHÖN-
THANK YOU
You can read a excerpt
from the climbing guide here (PDF-file - Adobe-Acrobat Reader
required).
Other climbing guides by Philippe Bugada, covering different
areas of South of France (French/English) are available
at www.lacorditelle.com.
Je commande
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